Summer is around the corner, and
Dogwood Spring has brought a welcome chill to the air. It’s a mild one compared
to past years with unexpected frosts, and chill temperatures. I’m at home, the
ancestral home of Cowan, Tennessee. My parents raised me here. Dad is buried in
the Cowan Cemetery, Mom will be there tomorrow. Her passing/death (They say you
shouldn’t sugar coat, it but I like to say passing. The way you transition from
size 10 to 11 in shoes, or the way liquids transition to gases when heat is applied.)
is not really surprising, but it’s always surprising. It’s expected, but
unexpected.
I’ve decided to go for a run. Running slower
now, but I’m fine with that. I jog through Cowan passing the small houses, kids
play in the yard. My pack jostles up and down. It’s a balmy 65F or so, and
breeze is hitting me in the face as I turn the corner, and head down to Slag
Town. Slag Town, is named for the mountains of slag (the by-products of iron
ore production) that make up a goodly portion of its geography. I cross the
bridge, over a rain swollen creek I head up the hill to the cement plant. I
turn on to the tracks, and make for the Cowan Train Tunnel. I’m running on
large gravel; my ankles threaten to turn with every step. This sucks.
In contrast to the rocks below, the
sky above is so blue it hurts your teeth. Wispy clouds glide past the great
lapis blue backdrop. The land around me is budding/blooming everywhere. Life is
waking from its winter nap. I startle a flock of turkey’s and watch as the
rapidly take to the air and fly some hundred yards down the track. Magnificent
birds, once rare now common. It’s nice to see them back. A lot of bad things
are going on in the world, but when I see the return of hawk’s and turkey’s I
feel a little better. At least were getting a few things right.
I’m running up now and around a
bend, the old/disused railroad track turn to the right. The main track moves
East. The track gets easier, the big gravel are almost gone. I’m running up
what we know around here as “The Goat Track” it used to run from Cowan to
Monteagle and beyond. At the time of its building it was the steepest railroad
in the world climbing 1200 feet in just 7 miles. The Plateau has been logged
mercilessly over of the years. Looking around the oaks, hickories, and walnuts
are budding, the understory is near barren. Occasionally some phlox, but
nothing more. The air is crisp, the wind chills. I’m soaked in sweat. The track
makes a sweeping arc, and I hear the steady rhythm of a train running the
track. Reaching the tunnel, the train passes below and I watch with
satisfaction as it rushes out of the tunnel and snakes around the bend. My
Grand-daddy used to be a Breakman on this line. “The Tunnel” as we call it is
carved through solid limestone for some 2,200 feet, and for years it was
supposedly the longest tunnel in the world (doubtful in my opinion). Nearly
every child in Cowan has likely ran through that tunnel at one point or
another. My brother Greg, has been in there with a train running through. He
says the sound is deafening. Greg’s been through it about six times. One time,
his Scoutmaster led him and six other kids through it, just so they wouldn’t
have to make the lung-busting hike over the top. Nobody died.
Moving on, I’m
confronted with a sturdy fence, warning me to advance no further. Like the
Black Knight in some ridiculous comedy it warns of dire consequences to all who
would dare to violate the sanctity of the land owners rights. Typically, I’m
fairly respectful of such things. However, the Law of imminent domain is not so
kind. The signs warn of the dire consequences to befall any persons engaged in:
hunting, trapping, bird watching, clam digging, poaching, and fishing. It makes
no mention of picking up your trash, which unfortunately is in abundance. I do
not understand these people that make so much about being outside when all they
do is ride around in their big trucks, motorcycles, and four-wheeler tearing
everything up slinging bottles/cans out the window. I’ve been coming up here
off and on for the last thirty years, and I’ll be damned and double damned if
any gate/signs warning of video surveillance are gonna prevent me from my
God-given right to bust my lungs running up the Cumberland Plateau on this
beautiful day. Smiling large for potential video surveillance I duck around the
fence, too easy.
Trudging on, they’ve plastered no
trespassing, no hunting, no gambling signs every few feet. I don’t let it spoil
my time here on the old railroad track. I keep on trucking. Trucking and
thinking, as kids, we’d hike up here, probably scared my parents to death.
There was little else to do at the time. Spending time in the woods was
preferable to exploring the ruined recesses of the decades abandoned cement
plant whose closing had nearly bankrupted the town.
Growing up in Cowan, my Mom had
lived in Slag Town (the South-West corner of Cowan, closest to the rock quarry)
with her brothers and sisters. The train ran within 20 feet or so of her back
porch. Mom was born in 1934, and grew up during The Great Depression and WWII.
Those early experiences undoubtedly provided her with a certain set of
experiences and skills that would shape her future. Mom (Mrs. Shores, to you
great and many unwashed masses) could paint, cook, fix, and make do with what
was available. Once, when either Dad was sleeping or at work she put new shocks
on our old Plymouth. She painted nearly every room in the house we lived at on
202 Hines Street. The house at 202 Hines is small. It’s probably 800 square
feet, compared to today’s houses it would be considered a bonus room.
My Mom, Betty Lou Shores a
marvelous woman who suffered
from crippling mental illness (depression/bi-polar
disorder) passed away quietly the morning of the 31st of March and
was buried at the Cowan Cemetery April 2nd, 2017. She is interred
next to her loving husband of some 62 years. They are together again at last,
and that is all the hope I have. Mom was a very hard worker. She knew her job,
and did it well. She supported my Dad to the utmost sometimes she led him with
a carrot sometimes a switch, but they were always devoted to each other come
what may. She lost her first son in James Vaughn Shores when they lived in Flint,
Michigan. He was only one day old. This exacerbated Moms mental health issues.
She struggled with depression and bi-polar disorder her entire life. She
endured multiple institutions, electro-shock therapy, and a near twenty-year
addiction to valium. I remember the days when she would lock herself in her
bedroom for days on end, and I remember the days she read to me and let me help
in the kitchen. Despite these handicaps, she gave all she could to her
children. Despite this, don’t think it was all gloom, doom, and deep sighing at
the human condition in the Shores household.
Betty Lou Shores was the best cook
imaginable. She made cookies that would make a Chihuahua
slap a bull dog right in the mouth. There was no cookie that was beyond her
grasp from chocolate oatmeal no-bakes to the absolute best chocolate chip
cookies, Mom made them all. For Halloween, she’d make molasses and caramel
popcorn balls. We sit and hand them out to those we deemed worthy of such
awesomeness. Mainly, my friends and those with really cool costumes. You name it my Mom made it, from chicken and
dumplings to roast turkeys, the best smells you can imagine came out of a
kitchen no bigger than a closet.
She supported me throughout my
life. Through Scouting, the Navy, University, and then the Navy again. Mom was
always proud of us. All of us have been successful despite not having a lot of
monetary resources. What we did have was a Mom, Dad, and Grand Parents that
cared about us, and managed to get a few things right. I feel that my Mom
reading to me has really helped me beyond anything she could have realized.
Some of my most cherished moments are sitting next to her while she read to me.
My favorite books were about Badgers that ate too much Jam, or mice that
lived-in bottles, snowy days, Big Red Dogs, and an Alligator that went to sea.
We also did lots of Saturday afternoon matinees at the Oldham Theater, and the
Library. We went every Saturday, sometimes more, and we would all spend a great
deal of time there. Mom was an avid reader, and I often read the books she was
reading. Mainly travel/explorer nonfiction. Mom had really wanted to go live in
Alaska at one point. What would have happened to the Shores Clan if she’d
talked Dad into that one?
What strikes me most about my Mom
was her kindness and selflessness to me. She literally gave me the shirt off
her back at times. She always made sure I had nice clothes, went to church, and
didn’t starve to death, or get hit by a car, or abducted by strangers. She
consistently provided for me materially and spiritually. Mom and Dad weren’t
perfect by any means, but they were there. Whether you liked it or not they
were always around to help. I remember the best birthday cakes, Easter baskets,
and Christmas’s with my family. Those days are gone forever, but I remember. If
you needed an example of someone that is devoted, hard-working, loving, and
thoughtful you would need look no further than my mother. My parents are heroes
to me in that they did so much for us with so little.
I continue this run, sweating and
climbing up the Plateau of my youth. The Goat Track used to be navigable by
vehicle. Now, you’d be hard pressed on a mountain bike. I clamber gracelessly
over
massive oaks that’ve fallen over the trail and duck under many fallen
branches. Several of the culverts have silted up, causing the water to cut deep
trenches into the old track effectively barring all but the most determined
explorers. I am determined. Soon, I start to see more vegetation. Toad Shade
Trillium, Blood Root, and Spring Beauty to name a few. Limestone/Sandstone
cliffs begin to rise precipitously high and a cool breeze is on the rise. I
slow to walking, taking in all the grandeur. I know, it’s all been logged a
million times, there’s the occasional trash pile, but still despite all this
it’s beautiful to me. Looking down I find a bent/warped railroad spike from
what must be a million years ago. I pick up and set it out on a rock, where
hopefully someone else will be able to appreciate it. It’s a great day, and
I’ve got more distance to cover before I rest.